Dragon Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Dragon Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Create your own small dragon friend with this free dragon amigurumi crochet pattern. It is a quick and easy-to-make project and makes the perfect companion for kids of all ages and those that are a kid at heart. Choose your own colours to make a unique gift that your child will want to play with for hours, or make more and create your own little dragon family. It is an ideal crochet pattern for those who have practiced the basics of crochet and are ready for their next project.

I am sure those of you who have young children in their lives can relate to me as I share this story with you. As a family, we had just finished celebrating Halloween; the decorations were all packed away and the last of the candy eaten. The second it was over my youngest said, “is it time for Christmas yet?” While the retail shops may agree with my youngest on this, I like there to be a pause between Halloween and Christmas. So I said “absolutely not, it’s too early for Christmas”, and then ended up playing Christmas songs throughout the house for the rest of the week because my youngest is a fantastic negotiator and always manages to get what she wants.

So, as always when I want to escape from the happy chaos that is my life with two kids,  I turned to my relaxing hobby of crochet.  For a few blissful hours, I can spend time in my happy place just concentrating on the next stitch and seeing the project comes to life in my hands. What did I want to make? I had wanted to work on a dragon for a long time, so I grabbed a ball of yarn and my favourite crochet hook for amigurumi and started crocheting. It took a few attempts to get it right; the shape of the head caused me hassle for quite a while, however I got there and now I am able to share with you this free dragon amigurumi crochet pattern.

Dragon Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Below is my free Dragon amigurumi crochet pattern just for you. Or you can purchase your very own ad-free, printer-friendly version of the pattern through my Etsy or Ravelry store. The purchased pattern comes with US and UK instructions and photo tutorials.

Dragon Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

This is an easy pattern suitable for those that have practised the basics of crochet and are ready for their next project. There is no set gauge for this pattern, however the finished size should be approximately 3.5 – 4.5 inches sitting (9 – 11 cm) or 5 – 6 inches standing (13 – 16 cm). Here is what you will need:

Materials

  • You can use any DK or light weight yarn (other yarn thickness can be used – this will result in a different size). I have used the following acrylic yarn and needed less than 50g of each colour:
    • Stylecraft Special DK in Duck Egg – yarn A
    • Stylecraft Special DK in Lemon 50g – yarn B
    • Patons Smoothie DK in black (approx 39 inches/100 cm) – yarn C
  • Polyester stuffing
  • 2.5mm crochet hook
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch marker or scrap piece of yarn (optional)
  • Long sewing needle (optional if button jointing)
  • Sewing pins to position the limbs before attaching (optional if button jointing)
  • Four 6mm buttons (optional if button jointing)
  • Upholstery thread (optional if button jointing)
  • Two washers approx. 2cm in diameter (optional if weighting the feet – you can also use two one-cent coins or pennies)

Special Techniques

This pattern uses a magic adjustable ring to start. It also uses invisible decreases and an ear stitch.

Invisible decrease: insert hook into the front loops of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through the first 2 loops of the hook, yarn over, pull through the final 2 loops on the hook. This counts as 1 sc.

Ear stitch:  2 ch, yarn over twice,  insert hook into FL of next stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, yarn over, draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, yarn over twice,  insert hook into FL of same stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, yarn over, draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, yarn over and draw the yarn through all 3 loops on the hook.

Notes

  • Are you new to crochet? Here is a handy post explaining all the abbreviations.
  • I have used US crochet stitch terms for this post. Check out this US to UK stitch conversion guide if you prefer to work in UK stitches. The PDF version has both US and UK instructions.
  • All pieces, apart from the wings, are worked in continuous (spiral) rounds with right side facing at all times. Do not turn or join at end of each round unless instructed. Place stitch marker or use a scrap piece of yarn for beginning of round and move marker up as each round is completed.
  • The wings are worked in rows, turning after each row.
  • Keep your stitches tight to produce a solid looking fabric. You don’t want gaps between your stitches.
  • When you add the stuffing, you do not want to overstuff to the point that the stuffing is visible.
  • Weighting the feet (optional) serves two purposes; 1) to help the amigurumi to stand if it is button jointed or the limbs are sewn in a standing position, and 2) to give it a little more weight which feels nice when it is held.

Safety Caution

If you are making this as a gift for younger children DO NOT weight the feet or use buttons to joint the limbs. Please instead securely sew the arms and legs to the body.

Head

Make one in yarn A.

Work 4 sc into a magic adjustable ring (see end of pattern for tutorial). Pull tail to close.

Round 1. 2 sc in each sc to end. (8 sts)

Round 2. 2 sc in each sc to end. (16 sts)

Round 3. 1 sc in each sc to end. (16 sts)

Round 4. *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * to end (24 sts)

Round 5. *Inv dec, 1 sc in next sc; repeat from * to end (16 sts)

Round 6-7 (two rounds). 1 sc in each sc to end. (16 sts)

Round 8. *2 sc in FL of next sc, 1 sc in FL of next sc; repeat from * to end. (24 sts)

Round 9-10 (two rounds). 1 sc in each sc to end. (24 sts)

Round 11. 1 ear st in next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in each of next 8 sc, 1 ear st in next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in each of next 14 sc. (24 sts – count the ear st as 1 st and do not include the two lots of 3 ch in the st count). See photo below.

Round 12. 1 sc in the BL behind the ear st (fold the ear flap forward to access the BL from the previous round), 1 sc in each of next 8 sc, 1 sc in the BL behind the ear st, 1 sc in each of next 14 sc (24 sts). See photo below.

Round 13. 1 sc in each sc to end. (24 sts)

Round 14. *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, inv dec; repeat from * to end. (18 sts)

Round 15. *1 sc in next sc, inv dec; repeat from * to end. (12 sts)

Stuff firmly.

Round 16. inv dec 5 times. (5 sts, leave the last 2sts unworked)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use tail to sew closed the hole, weave in ends.

Leg

Make two in yarn A.

Work 6 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close.

Round 1. 2 sc in each sc to end. (12 sts)

Round 2. *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc; repeat from * to end. (18 sts)

Round 3. 1 sc in BL of each sc to end. (18 sts)

Round 4. 1 sc in each sc to end. (18 sts)

If weighting the feet, insert the coin or washer into the base of the foot (DO NOT weight the feet if making for younger children).

Round 5. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, inv dec 6 times. (12 sts)

Round 6. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, inv dec 3 times. (9 sts)

Round 7-8 (two rounds). 1 sc in each sc to end. (9 sts)

Stuff firmly. Do not continue to stuff the leg.

Round 9-10 (two rounds). 1 sc in each sc to end. (9 sts)

Round 11. Flatten the leg together and close with 1 sc in each of next 3 sc going through both sides. (3 sts). See photo below.

Fasten off. If you are going to button joint the limbs then weave in ends, otherwise leave a long end to sew onto body.

Arm

Make two in yarn A.

Work 6 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close.

Round 1. 2 sc in each sc to end. (12 sts)

Round 2. 1 sc in each sc to end. (12 sts)

Round 3. *1 sc in next sc, inv dec; repeat from * to end. (8 sts)

Round 4-9 (six rounds). 1 sc in each sc to end. (8 sts)

Stuff lightly.

Round 10. Flatten the arm together and close with 1 sc in each of next 3 sc going through both sides. (3 sts). See photo above.

Fasten off. If you are going to button joint the limbs then weave in ends, otherwise leave a long end to sew onto body.

Body

Make one in yarn A.

Work 7 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close.

Round 1. *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc; repeat from * two more times, 2 sc in next sc. (11 sts)

Round 2. *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * four more times, 1 sc in next sc. (16 sts)

Round 3-4 (two rounds). 1 sc in each sc to end. (16 sts)

Round 5. *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * to end. (20 sts)

Round 6. 1 sc in each sc to end. (20 sts)

Round 7. *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * to end. (30 sts)

Round 8. 1 sc in each sc to end. (30 sts)

Round 9. 1 sc in each of next 18 sc, *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * five more times. (36 sts)

Round 10. *1 sc in next sc, inv dec; repeat from * to end. (24 sts)

Round 11. *1 sc in next sc, inv dec; repeat from * to end. (16 sts)

Stuff firmly.

Round 12. inv dec to end. (8 sts)

Round 13. inv dec once. (1 st, leave the rest of the round unworked)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use tail to close hole, weave in ends.

Tail

Make one in yarn A.

Work 6 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close.

Round 1. *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc; repeat from * to end. (9 sts)

Round 2. 1 sc in each sc to end. (9 sts)

Round 3. *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc; repeat from * three more times, 1 sc in next sc. (13 sts)

Round 4-6 (three rounds). 1 sc in each sc to end. (13 sts)

Slip stitch in next stitch to smooth the edge, then fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew tail to body.

Horn

Make two in yarn B.

Work 5 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close.

Round 1-2 (two rounds). 1 sc in each sc to end. (5 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using the handle of your crochet hook, or other blunt tool, to shape the horn. See photo below. Do not stuff. Use tail to sew horns to head. Weave in ends.

Wing

Make four in yarn B.

5 ch. (5)

Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end, 1 ch, turn. (4 sc and 1 ch)

Row 2. 1 sc in each sc to end, 3 ch, turn. (4 sc and 3 ch)

Row 3. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in next ch, 1 sc in each sc to end,  1 ch, turn. (6 sc and 1 ch)

Row 4. 1 sc in each sc to end, 3 ch, turn. (6 sc and 3 ch)

Row 5. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in next ch, 1 sc in each sc to end. (8 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew wing pieces together.

Dragon Assembly

1. Attach head to body using matching yarn. The top of the head has the shortest space between the ears. The top of the body is the narrow end and the front of the body is identifiable by the little tubby belly.

2. Attach arms and legs using matching yarn. For movable limbs attach by button jointing.

SAFETY CAUTION. If making for younger children DO NOT make with buttons, instead securely sew the arms and legs to the body.

3. Lightly stuff the tail and then sew the tail to the back of the body.

4. Sew the two horns to the top of the head, in between and in-line with the ears.

5. Embroider on the face (following the tutorial below).

6. Sew two of the wing pieces together to make one wing. Repeat with the other two wing pieces.

7. Sew the wings to the back, being careful not to get in the way of the arms.

Face – Eyes and Eyebrows

Placement: The eyes are one stitch wide and are located between round 7 and 8 (where the nose and the forehead meet). There is a space of two stitches in between the eyes. The eyebrows are directly above the eyes and are two stitches wide.

1. Thread the black yarn (approx. 100 cm) through yarn needle, line both ends of the thread up to sew using doubled thread.

2. Insert the needle into the bottom of the face. Bring the needle out to where the first eye will go. Make sure to leave a long enough tail behind for securing the ends in step 7.

3. Sew across the stitch four times to make the eye, then carry thread under face to the next eye.

4. Sew across the stitch four times to make the next eye, then carry thread under face to the start of the first eyebrow.

5. Sew the eyebrows on.

6. Thread the needle back through the face, bringing it out exactly in the same place where the needle was first inserted.

7.  Knot both parts of the yarn securely. Fasten off and hide loose ends within the head.

And there you go; I hope you enjoy making your own little dragon using this free dragon amigurumi crochet pattern. He’ll make a great addition to your own amigurumi collection, however he might get lonely on his own, so why don’t you make two, to keep him company. Why not check out these other free patterns, as well, to add to your collection.

If you do wish to have your very own copy of the pattern to keep, that is ad-free and printer-friendly you can either purchase it through my Etsy or Ravelry store. It comes with US and UK instructions and photo tutorials.

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See what other people are saying

“Overall,  very well written and easy to follow. I’ve made several items before and have never done ears this way, works great.”

CHA

“That is one of the best written and comprehensive patterns I’ve ever seen.

DS

“Great pattern and easy to follow.”

CB

I love this pattern and do plan to make many more.”

JYK

“All in all the pattern was great, and the photos were fantastic. I thought the mirrored photos for lefties was a lovely touch as they are so often forgotten about in photo/video tutorials!.”

LS

“Overall, the pattern is clear and straightforward, resulting in a cute little dragon. I loved the button jointing! I’ve not done that before, but certainly will again..”

NR