Frankenstein Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Celebrate Halloween in style with this free spookily cute little Frankenstein amigurumi crochet pattern. It is a quick and easy-to-make project and is ideal if you are looking to add some Halloween cuteness to your day.

As I’ve mentioned before, I love Halloween. After Christmas, it is my second favourite holiday. I love the community spirit as I see all my neighbours decorating their houses with spooky scenes and welcoming children to their front door to admire their outfits and hand out sweets. I also love to crochet, so it was an easy decision to crochet something for Halloween, however what to make?

I recently posted a free pattern for a little mummy amigurumi that you could make in time for Halloween. However, he looked so lonely by himself on the shelf between the pumpkin and fake spider web, that I just had to make him a companion. So I come up with the pattern for this little Frankenstein amigurumi crochet pattern, which I am happy to share with you today. Little Mummy looks much happier now he has someone to hold his hand if it gets too scary.

Below is my free Frankenstein amigurumi crochet pattern just for you. Or you can purchase your very own ad-free, printer-friendly version of the pattern through my Etsy or Ravelry store. The purchased pattern comes with US and UK instructions and contains the directions to make both the mummy and Frankenstein.

This is an easy pattern suitable for those that have practised the basics of crochet and are ready for their next project. There is no set gauge for this pattern, however the finished size should be approximately 5 inches high (13cm). Here is what you will need:

Materials

You can use any DK or light weight yarn (other yarn thickness can be used – this will result in a larger size). I used the following acrylic yarn. You don’t need much.
- Stylecraft Special DK in Grass Green 50g (161 yards/148 metres) – yarn A
- Stylecraft Special DK in Black 50g (161 yards/148 metres) – yarn B
- Stylecraft Special DK in Silver 10g (32 yards/30 metres) – yarn C
Polyester stuffing
2.5mm crochet hook
Yarn needle
Two safety eyes 9mm in diameter

Notes

Are you new to crochet? Here is a handy post explaining all the abbreviations.
I have used US crochet stitch terms for this post. Check out this US to UK stitch conversion guide if you prefer to work in UK stitches.
All pieces, apart from the neck bolts, are worked in rows, turning after each row.
The neck bolts are worked in continuous (spiral) rounds with right side facing at all times.
To change colour, work the last stitch of old colour to the last yarn over. Yarn over with the new colour and draw through all loops on hook to complete the stitch. Continue with the new colour. Fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
Keep your stitches tight to produce a solid looking fabric. You don’t want gaps between your stitches.
Carefully stuff to maintain the square shape of the amigurumi toy. You can stuff for a more firmer cuddle, however the cubes will start to take a more rounded shape.
When you add the stuffing, you do not want to overstuff to the point that the stuffing is visible.

Head – Part A

Make one.

Using yarn A, 11 ch. (11)

Row 1. With yarn A 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 2-7. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 8. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 9-10. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 11. With yarn B 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 12-20. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 21. With yarn B 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 22. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 23-29. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 30. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end. Fasten off and weave in ends. (10 sc)

HEAD – Part B

Make one.

Using yarn B, 11 ch. (11)

Row 1. With yarn B 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 2. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 3-10. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 11. With yarn A 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 12-20. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 21. With yarn A 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 22-27. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 28. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 29. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)

Row 30. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end. Fasten off and weave in ends. (10 sc)

The above photo shows part A (left) and part B (right) of the head.

Body – Part A

Make one.

Using yarn A, 13 ch. (13)

Row 1. With yarn A 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 2-5. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 6. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 7-12. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 13. With yarn B 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 14-24. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 25. With yarn B 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 26-29. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 30. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 31-35. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 36. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end. Fasten off and weave in ends. (12 sc)

Body – Part B

Make one.

Using yarn B, 13 ch. (13)

Row 1. With yarn B 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 2-5. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 6. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 7-12. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 13. With yarn A 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 14-24. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 25. With yarn A 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 26-29. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 30. With yarn A 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 31-35. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)

Row 36. With yarn B 1 sc in each sc to end. Fasten off and weave in ends. (12 sc)

The above photo shows part A (left) and part B (right) of the body.

Arms/Legs

Make four in yarn A and four in yarn B.

6 ch. (6)

Row 1. 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)

Row 2-5. 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)

Row 6. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)

Row 7-10. 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)

Row 11. 1 sc in the BL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)

Row 12-14. 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)

Row 15. 1 sc in each sc to end. Fasten off and weave in ends. (5 sc)

Neck Bolts

Make two in yarn C.

Work 6 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close. (6)

Round 1. 1 sc in each sc to end. Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Shape the neck bolt over the end of a pencil (6 sc)

Assembly

1. Attach the safety eyes to one of the head rectangles. Each eye is placed 3 rows up from the bottom edge and 3 stitches in from the side. There are 4 stitches between the eyes.

2. Sew all the individual cubes together (if this is your first time assembling a cube from two rectangles then check out the How to Assemble a Crochet Amigurumi Cube tutorial).

3. Once all 6 cubes are complete, sew the robot together.

4. Sew the neck bolts into place. Then, using yarn B, add some decorative stitches to his head, arm and body. For each set of ‘stitches’, sew one long stitch, followed by a couple of short stitches over the top of the long stitch.

And there you go, I hope you enjoy making your Frankenstein using this free crochet amigurumi pattern. He might get lonely on his own, so why don’t you make his friend, the little mummy, to keep him company. They would both make great additions to your own amigurumi collection. Why not check out these other free patterns, as well, to add to your collection.

If you do wish to have your very own copy of the pattern to keep, that is ad-free and printer-friendly you can either purchase it through my Etsy or Ravelry store. You get the instructions for both the mummy and Frankenstein, and it comes with US and UK instructions and photo tutorials.

Buy on Etsy

Buy on Ravelry

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