Need a gift for the special little dancer in your life? This ballerina doll is quick and easy-to-make and is just the right size for a comforting hug. It’ll be a hit with any child who needs a new best friend to dance with during the day and a soft and squishy doll to snuggle at night.
Quest for the perfect hug!
When I was younger I used love watching the ballet whenever it was on tv. All of the amazing dancers, so elegant and stylish, effortless leaping around the stage and balancing on the tips of their toes.
Well, at the start of every ballet career is usually a tubby little toddler ballerina wearing a big, frilly tutu. Or at least, that was the image I had in my mind when I started designing the ballerina doll.
A couple of weeks after the Small Ballerina Amigurumi crochet pattern was released, my eldest daughter asked for a bigger ballerina doll to play with as well. The reason? The small doll was great for playtime, however she wanted a bigger hug at night. Well, I’m a sucker for a good hug so I had to help my daughter in her quest for the perfect night-time hug, and so my latest crochet pattern came into being. I am so happy to share this free pattern with you today.
Large Ballerina is part of my new Cubigurumi range, a series of cute, cube-tastic toys to delight, inspire and entertain the special child in your life . You can find the whole range of huggable, quirky characters on the My Crochet Wish website, such as this sweet, little Snowman.
My fascination with cubes keeps growing, so watch out as there will definitely be more Cubigurumi crochet patterns coming this way over the next few months. They are just so quick and easy-to-make and my girls love how different they look compared to their other toys.
Cubigurumi: cube-tastic crochet!
Do you love crocheting but struggle to make time for it in your busy week? The Cubigurumi range is designed for the busy crafter. Each design is simple to make, but still stylish in appearance. You make fast progress in small blocks of time and end up with a gift-worthy finished creation. They work up quickly to create a cherished friend that any child would love to hug.
Each Cubigurumi starts life as a series of simple, flat rectangles, before they are then sewn together to create the individual cube body parts. This makes each part quick and straightforward to work on, without having to worry about shaping the doll as you crochet. The tutu for the large ballerina doll is then crocheted onto the body cube, after it is sewn together. Finally, the individual cubes are then sewn together to create your finished masterpiece and voila! You have your very own Cubigurumi, with its adorable and distinctive look. It is an ideal project for beginner crocheters, who have practiced the basics and are ready for their next creation.
The free crochet pattern for the ballerina doll is shared, below. However, this pattern is also available as a Premium Pattern!
Premium Patterns are beautifully formatted, ad-free, printable PDF files; they also contain features that are not available in the free pattern version, such as:
- Extra photos and guidance to help you with the little details.
- Instructions and photos for left-handed and right-handed people, where needed, so there is no need to adapt the pattern before you start.
- Relevant step-by-step photo tutorials for the skills you need to complete the project, making it easy every step of the way. This ballerina pattern includes the step-by-step photo tutorials on how start with a magic circle and how to sew together a My Crochet Wish amigurumi cube.
- Instructions using US and UK crochet terms, so you can enjoy the pattern no matter which crochet language you use.
Large Ballerina Free Crochet Pattern
This is an easy pattern suitable for those that have practised the basics of crochet and are ready for their next project. There is no set gauge for this pattern, however the finished size should be approximately 9 inches high (23 cm). Here is what you will need:
Disclaimer: there is sewing involved in this project. In my experience, there are three types of people in the crochet community; those that hate sewing and actively avoid it, those that are indifferent and will sew if necessary, and those that love sewing and do it as separate craft. If you are in the first group and hate sewing with a passion, then my Cubigurumi patterns probably aren’t for you.
Materials
- Any DK or light weight yarn (other yarn types or thickness can be used – this will result in a different size). I used Stylecraft Special DK in the following colours:
- Pink Leotard Ballerina
- Soft Peach 50g (161 yards / 148 metres) – yarn A
- Walnut 25g (81 yards / 74 metres) – yarn B
- Fondant 70g (233 yards / 207 metres) – yarn C
- Green Leotard Ballerina
- Mocha 50g (161 yards / 148 metres) – yarn A
- Walnut 25g (81 yards / 74 metres) – yarn B
- Spearmint 70g (233 yards / 207 metres) – yarn C
- Pink Leotard Ballerina
- Polyester stuffing
- 2.5mm crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- Two safety eyes 12mm in diameter
- Sewing pins (optional)
Notes
- Are you new to crochet? Here is a handy post explaining all the abbreviations.
- I have used US crochet stitch terms for this post. Check out this US to UK stitch conversion guide if you prefer to work in UK stitches.
- All pieces, apart from the hair bun and tutu, are worked in rows, turning after each row.
- The hair bun and tutu are worked in a continuous (spiral) round with right side facing at all times.
- Unless specified, all stitches should be worked through both loops on the top of the stitch.
- Keep your stitches tight to produce a solid looking fabric. You don’t want gaps between your stitches.
- The bobble stitch is worked on the ‘wrong’ side of the fabric, making the bobble ‘pop’ out on the opposite side of the fabric (unless otherwise specified).
- To change colour, work last stitch of old colour to last yarn over. Yarn over with new colour and draw through all loops on hook to complete stitch. Continue with new colour. Fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
- Stuff carefully to maintain the square shape of the amigurumi toy. You can stuff for a more firmer cuddle, however the cubes will start to take a more rounded shape.
- When you add the stuffing, you do not want to overstuff to the point that the stuffing is visible.
Head – Part A
Make one.
When changing between yarns, fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
Using yarn A, 17 ch. (17 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 3. 1 sc in each of next 7 sts, bo in next st, 1 sc in each of next 8 sts, 1ch, turn (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 4-11 (eight rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 12. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn B, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 13-16 (four rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18-32 (fifteen rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 33. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 34-45 (twelve rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 46. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 47. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 48. 1 sc in each st to end. (16 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Head – Part B
Make one.
When changing between yarns, follow the instructions for the row you are on.
Using yarn B, 17 ch. (17 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-3 (two rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 4. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 5. 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 6. 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 2 st, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 7. 1 sc in each of next 2 st, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 8. 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 9. 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 10. 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 11. 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 12. 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 bo in the next st, 1 sc in each of next 5 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Push the above bobble stitch through to the other side of the crochet fabric.
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 13. 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and fasten off non-working yarn.
Row 14. 1 sc in each of next 10 st, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 15-16 (two rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18-32 (fifteen rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 33. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 34. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 35. 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 36. 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 37. 1 sc in each of next 5 sts, 1 bo in the next st, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 38. 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 39. 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 40. 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 41. 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 42. 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 43. 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and fasten off non-working yarn (yarn A).
Row 44. 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 45-47 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 48. 1 sc in each st to end. (16 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
The Premium Pattern contains close up photos of the individual parts, prior to assembly.
Body – Part A
Make one in yarn C.
20 ch. (20 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-7 (six rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 8. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 9-19 (eleven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 20. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 21-38 (eighteen rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 39. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 40-50 (eleven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 51. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 52-56 (five rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 57. 1 sc in each st to end. (19 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn to sew the cube together later on.
Body – Part B
Make one in yarn C.
20 ch. (20 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-12 (eleven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 13. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 14-19 (six rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 20. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 21-38 (eighteen rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 39. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 40-45 (six rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 46. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 47-56 (ten rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 57. 1 sc in each st to end. (19 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Arms
Make four in yarn A.
9 ch. (9 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-8 (seven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 9. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 10-16 (seven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18-23 (six rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 24. 1 sc in each st to end. (8 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn on two of the pieces to sew the cubes together later on. Weave in the remaining ends.
Legs – Part A
Make two.
When changing between yarns, fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
Using yarn A, 9 ch. (9 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-4 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 5. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn C, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 6-8 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 9. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 10-16 (seven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 19. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 20-23 (four rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 24. 1 sc in each st to end. (8 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Legs – Part B
Make two.
When changing between yarns, fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
Using yarn C, 9 ch. (9 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 3. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 4-8 (five rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 9. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 10-16 (seven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18-20 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 21. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn C, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 22-23 (two rows) . 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 24. 1 sc in each st to end. (8 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Hair Bun
Make one.
Work in a continuous (spiral) round with right side facing at all times.
Using yarn B, work 8 sc into a magic adjustable ring (How to Create a Magic Adjustable Ring Tutorial). Pull tail to close. (8 sts)
Round 1. [1 sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next st] four times. (16 sts)
Round 2. 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 sc in the next st, [1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 3 sc in the next st] three times, 1 sc in the next st (24 sts)
Round 3. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end. (24 sts)
Round 4. 1 sc in each st to end. (24 sts)
Round 5. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn C. (24 sts)
Round 6. 1 sc in each st to end. (24 sts)
Slip stitch in next two stitches to smooth the edge, then fasten off, leaving a long end to sew the hair bun to the head.
Tutu
Make one in yarn C.
Start by sewing together the body cube (How to Assemble a Crochet Amigurumi Cube Tutorial).
On the body cube, a row of loops can be seen partway up the side, that goes around the entire circumference of the body. The tutu is crocheted onto these loops.
Work in a continuous (spiral) round with right side facing at all times.
Attach yarn C to the beginning of any row of the loops with a single crochet (this counts as the first sc for round 1).
Round 1. 1 sc in the loop of the each of the next 19 sts, 1 ch, [1 sc in the loop of the 1st st on the next side of the cube, 1 sc in the loop of each of the next 18 sts, 1 ch] three times (80 sts)
Round 2. [1 sc in each of the next 19 sts, 2 sc in the next ch space] four times (84 sts)
Round 3. 2 ch (counts as first tr), 2 tr in the next st, 3 tr in each st to end (252 sts)
Round 4. Ss into first tr, 2 ch, 2 tr into same st, 3 tr in each st to end (756 sts)
Slip stitch in next two stitches to smooth the edge, then fasten off, weave in ends.
The Premium Pattern contains a photo tutorial for this section.
Large Ballerina Assembly
Before you start sewing, take the time to make sure that the cube will assemble the correct way (the end result should resemble the final photos). The fold lines (the unworked lines of loops on the rectangles) should stay on the outside of the cube.
1. Attach the safety eyes to HEAD – PART A, on the same side as the nose. Each eye is placed 5 rows up from the bottom edge and 5 stitches in from the side. There are 6 stitches between the eyes.
2. Sew the head cube together. Pin together both hair sections of HEAD – PART A and HEAD – PART B, and sew using yarn B. Sew together the back of the neck section using yarn A. Stuff the cube, then sew the face section closed using yarn A.
3. Lightly stuff the hair bun, and sew it to the top of the head.
4. Sew the two leg cubes together. Pin together both shoe sections of LEG – PART A and LEG – PART B, and sew using yarn C. Pin together one of the remaining leg sections and sew using yarn A. Stuff the cube, the sew the remaining leg section closed using yarn A. Repeat for other leg.
5. Sew the two arm cubes together (How to Assemble a Crochet Amigurumi Cube Tutorial).
6. Once all 6 cubes are complete, sew the amigurumi together.
The Premium Pattern contains a photo tutorial for this section.
And there you go, I hope you enjoy making your Large Ballerina using this large ballerina free crochet pattern. She would make a great gift or addition to your amigurumi collection. Looking for inspiration on what to make next? Check out these other patterns, to add to your collection. I’d love to see your finished project; you can link to me on Ravelry, tag me on Instagram or visit my Facebook page.
If you do wish to have your very own beautifully formatted copy of the pattern to keep, that is ad-free, printer-friendly, and packed with lots of useful photos and tutorials you can purchase the Premium Pattern through either my Etsy or Ravelry store.
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See what other people are saying
“I finished the ballerina. She’s so adorable. Your instructions were amazing. Great job!! The pics were very helpful as well.”
JR
“The pattern is very easy to follow.”
RG
“This was a lovely pattern! The instructions for color changes were very clear, and it works up so quickly! This will be a wonderful, cuddly little friend to brighten up a child’s room!”
JB
“The pattern was easy to follow and fun to do, as always.”
TP
“I know my granddaughter is going to love her and proudly carry her along to ballet class.“
TS
