The Halloween celebrations continue with this spookily cute free witch crochet pattern. This friendly witch has been practicing all her spells ready for Halloween. Her favourite spell, so far, is the never-ending bucket of candy. An ideal weekend project, she is easy-to-make and will add Halloween cuteness to the day. She’ll be a hit with any child who needs a new best friend to go trick or treating with during the day and a soft and squishy doll to snuggle at night. She is suitable both as a toy or to add some delightfulness to your Halloween decoration.
Hello Halloween (part two)!
Here at My Crochet Wish, I am all about helping people create adorable crochet gifts for the special child in their life. Children are such a blessing and I love seeing the delight on their face when they receive precious handmade gifts of love. Handmade gifts can provide a lifetime of treasured memories, and I am still grateful for the many items that my mum made for me when I was young, that are now stored safely up in my attic, as they have become too fragile for the wear and tear of daily life.
One of the reasons I started this website, was as a result of crocheting for my two girls. I saw the fun they were having with the toys and other items I was making them and want to share that joy with others. Most of my designs are based on items created for them, and they both help me with my business, not just as the models that you see in the pictures on this site, but as creative idea-contributors as well. I love their imagination and have all of their suggestions jotted down in my little notebook of future-project ideas.
In my last blog post, I shared with you our recent family meeting where I asked the girls what they wanted as a Halloween crochet gift. My eldest asked for a large version of the Halloween Mummy I released last year, which I shared with you as a free pattern last month. And my youngest asked for… a witch! Just not a scary one (we recently watch the classic Wizard of Oz with the amazing Judy Garland and the witch in the film was a bit too much for my youngest).
So, how to make an ever-so-adorable and not-so-scary witch. Well, first of all I had to make her in the Cubigurumi style. Just look at those cute little eyes and button nose – how can any one be afraid of such a sweet, little face? To make her look witchy I gave her the classic witch-green skin and a witch’s hat and broomstick. However, as it will be played with by children, I made the broomstick both easy-to-make and child-friendly (no small pieces that will break or come loose).
Both my children were very pleased and happy and have enjoyed playing with their new toys. You might have noticed that I have pictures of two different witch dolls… well, I couldn’t just make one. There would have been endless arguments!
Large Witch is part of my Cubigurumi range, a series of cute, cube-tastic toys to delight, inspire and entertain the special child in your life . You can find the whole range of huggable, quirky characters on the My Crochet Wish website, such as this sweet, little Snowman. They are just so quick and easy-to-make. Both of my children love playing their cube-based games on their tablets, and love that they have cube shaped toys as well!
Cubigurumi: cube-shaped love!
Looking to make adorable, handmade gifts to spoil the children with, but struggle to find time during the week? The Cubigurumi range was designed for the busy crafter. Each design is simple to make and adorable in appearance. You make fast progress in small blocks of time and end up with a gift-worthy finished creation.
Each Cubigurumi starts life as a series of simple, flat rectangles, before they are then sewn together to create the individual cube body parts. This makes each part quick and straightforward to work on, without having to worry about shaping the doll as you crochet. For the witch, the dress is crocheted onto the body cube, before the individual cubes are sewn together. Add the witchy accessories and then you are finished. An adorable, squishy friend to play with and comfort the special child in your life.
It is an ideal project for beginner crocheters, who have practiced the basics and are ready for their next creation.
The free crochet pattern for the Halloween Witch doll is shared, below. However, this pattern is also available as a Premium Pattern!
Premium Patterns are beautifully formatted, ad-free, printable PDF files; they also contain features that are not available in the free pattern version, such as:
- Extra photos and guidance to help you with the little details.
- Instructions and photos for left-handed and right-handed people, where needed, so there is no need to adapt the pattern before you start.
- Relevant step-by-step photo tutorials for the skills you need to complete the project, making it easy every step of the way. This witch pattern includes the step-by-step photo tutorials on how start with a magic circle and how to sew together a My Crochet Wish amigurumi cube.
- Instructions using US and UK crochet terms, so you can enjoy the pattern no matter which crochet language you use.
Large Witch Free Crochet Pattern
This is an easy pattern suitable for those that have practised the basics of crochet and are ready for their next project. There is no set gauge for this pattern, however the finished size should be approximately 9 inches high (23 cm), excluding the hat. Here is what you will need:
Materials
- Any DK or light weight yarn (other yarn types or thickness can be used – this will result in a different size). I used Stylecraft Special DK in the following colours:
- Lincoln 35g (113 yards / 104 metres) – yarn A
- Mocha 25g (81 yards / 74 metres) – yarn B
- Vintage Peach 50g (161 yards / 148 metres) – yarn C
- Grey 25g (81 yards / 74 metres) – yarn D
- Black 5g (17 yards / 15 metres) – yarn E
- Stone 5g (17 yards / 15 metres) – yarn F
- Dark Brown 5g (17 yards / 15 metres) – yarn G
- Polyester stuffing
- 2.5mm crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- Two safety eyes 12mm in diameter
- Sewing pins (optional)
Disclaimer: there is sewing involved in this project. In my experience, there are three types of people in the crochet community; those that hate sewing and actively avoid it, those that are indifferent and will sew if the pattern calls for it, and those that love sewing and do it as separate craft. If you are in the first group and hate sewing with a passion, then my Cubigurumi patterns probably aren’t for you.
Notes
- Are you new to crochet? Here is a handy post explaining all the abbreviations.
- I have used US crochet stitch terms for this post. Check out this US to UK stitch conversion guide if you prefer to work in UK stitches.
- All pieces, apart from the hair bun, hat, and broomstick are worked in rows, turning after each row.
- The hair bun, hat and broomstick are worked in continuous (spiral) rounds with right side facing at all times.
- Unless specified, all stitches should be worked through both loops on the top of the stitch.
- Keep your stitches tight to produce a solid looking fabric. You don’t want gaps between your stitches.
- The bobble stitch is worked on the ‘wrong’ side of the fabric, making the bobble ‘pop’ out on the opposite side of the fabric (unless otherwise specified).
- To change colour, work last stitch of old colour to last yarn over. Yarn over with new colour and draw through all loops on hook to complete stitch. Continue with new colour. Fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn, unless otherwise stated.
- Make sure all colour changes occur on the same side of the crochet piece.
- Stuff carefully to maintain the square shape of the amigurumi toy. You can stuff for a more firmer cuddle, however the cubes will start to take a more rounded shape.
- When you add the stuffing, you do not want to overstuff to the point that the stuffing is visible.
The Premium Pattern contains close up photos of the individual parts, prior to assembly.
Head – Part A
Make one.
When changing between yarns, fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
Using yarn A, 17 ch. (17 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 3. 1 sc in each of next 7 sts, bo in next st, 1 sc in each of next 8 sts, 1ch, turn (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 4-11 (eight rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 12. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn B, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 13-16 (four rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18-32 (fifteen rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 33. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 34-45 (twelve rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 46. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 47. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 48. 1 sc in each st to end. (16 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Head – Part B
Make one.
When changing between yarns, follow the instructions for the row you are on.
Using yarn B, 17 ch. (17 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-3 (two rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 4. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 5. 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 6. 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 2 st, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 7. 1 sc in each of next 2 st, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 8. 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 9. 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 10. 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 11. 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 12. 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 bo in the next st, 1 sc in each of next 5 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Push the above bobble stitch through to the other side of the crochet fabric.
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 13. 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and fasten off non-working yarn.
Row 14. 1 sc in each of next 10 st, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 15-16 (two rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18-32 (fifteen rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 33. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 34. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 35. 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 36. 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 37. 1 sc in each of next 5 sts, 1 bo in the next st, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 38. 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 39. 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 40. 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 41. 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 42. 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 43. 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and fasten off non-working yarn (yarn A).
Row 44. 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, finish last st with yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, finish last st with yarn B, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 45-47 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (16 sts and 1 ch)
Row 48. 1 sc in each st to end. (16 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Body – Part A
Make one.
Using yarn C, 20 ch. (20 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-6 (five rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 7. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 8. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 9. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn C, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 10-19 (ten rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 20. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 21-38 (eighteen rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 39. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 40-47 (eight rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 48. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 49. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 50. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn C, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 51. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 52-56 (five rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 57. 1 sc in each st to end. (19 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn to sew the cube together later on.
Body – Part B
Make one.
Using yarn C, 20 ch. (20 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-9 (eight rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 10. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 11. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 12. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn C, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 13. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 14-19 (six rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 20. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 21-38 (eighteen rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 39. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 40-44 (five rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 45. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 46. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 47. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn C, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 48-56 (nine rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (19 sts and 1 ch)
Row 57. 1 sc in each st to end. (19 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Arms – Part A
Make two.
Using yarn A, 9 ch. (9 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-4 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 5. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 6. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn C, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 7-8 (two rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 9. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 10-16 (seven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 19. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 20-23 (four rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 24. 1 sc in each st to end. (8 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Arms – Part B
Make two.
Using yarn C, 9 ch. (9 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 3. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 4-8 (five rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 9. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 10-16 (seven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18-20 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 21. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 22. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn C, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 23. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 24. 1 sc in each st to end. (8 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Legs- Part A
Make two.
When changing between yarns, fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
Using yarn A, 9 ch. (9 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2-4 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 5. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 6-8 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 9. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 10-16 (seven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 19. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 20-23 (four rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 24. 1 sc in each st to end. (8 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Legs- Part B
Make two.
When changing between yarns, fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
Using yarn D, 9 ch. (9 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 2. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 3. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn A, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 4-8 (five rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 9. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 10-16 (seven rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 17. 1 sc in the FL of each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 18-20 (three rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 21. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 22-23 (two rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (8 sts and 1 ch)
Row 24. 1 sc in each st to end. (8 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Hair Bun
Make one.
Work in a continuous (spiral) round with right side facing at all times.
Using yarn B, work 8 sc into a magic adjustable ring (How to Create a Magic Adjustable Ring Tutorial). Pull tail to close. (8 sts)
Round 1. [1 sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next st] four times. (16 sts)
Round 2. 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 sc in the next st, [1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 3 sc in the next st] three times, 1 sc in the next st (24 sts)
Round 3. 1 sc in the BL of each st to end. (24 sts)
Round 4. 1 sc in each st to end. (24 sts)
Round 5. 1 sc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn D. (24 sts)
Round 6. 1 sc in each st to end. (24 sts)
Slip stitch in next two stitches to smooth the edge, then fasten off, leaving a long end to sew the hair bun to the head.
Dress
The Premium Pattern contains a photo tutorial for this section.
Make one.
Start by sewing together the body cube (How to Assemble a Crochet Amigurumi Cube Tutorial).
On the body cube, a row of loops can be seen partway up the side, that goes around the entire circumference of the body. The dress is crocheted onto these loops.
Hold the top of the body towards you and work in rounds with right side always facing.
Attach yarn C to the beginning of any row of loops with a sc (this counts as the first sc for round 1).
Round 1. 1 sc in the loop of each of the next 19 sts, 1 ch, [1 sc in the loop of the 1st st on the next side of the cube, 1 sc in the loop of each of the next 18 sts, 1 ch] three times, ss into first sc to close. (80 sts)
Round 2. 2 ch (counts as first dc), 1 dc in each of the next 18 sts, 3 dc in the ch space, [1 dc in each of the next 19 sts, 3 dc into the ch space] three times, ss into top of first 2 ch to close. (88 sts)
Round 3-5 (three rounds). 2 ch (counts as first dc), 1 dc in each st to end, ss into top of first 2 ch to close. (88 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Attach yarn D to any dc from round 5 with a sc (this counts as the first sc for round 6).
Round 6. [1 sc in next st, 2 ch] repeat to end, ss into first sc to close. (88 lots of edging)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Witch’s Hat
Make one.
Using yarn D, work 6 sc into a magic adjustable ring (How to Create a Magic Adjustable Ring Tutorial). Pull tail to close. (6 sts)
Round 1. 1 sc in each st to end. (6 sts)
Round 2. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts] two times. (8 sts)
Round 3. 1 sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st. (10 sts)
Round 4. 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. (12 sts)
Round 5. 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st. (14 sts)
Round 6. 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts. (16 sts)
Round 7. 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts. (18 sts)
Round 8. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 sts] two times. (20 sts)
Round 9. 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts. (22 sts)
Round 10. 1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. (24 sts)
Round 11. 1 sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st. (26 sts)
Round 12. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 12 sts] two times. (28 sts)
Round 13. 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 10 sts, finish last st with yarn C. (30 sts)
Round 14. 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 sts. (32 sts)
Round 15. 1 sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts. (34 sts)
Round 16. 1 sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, finish last st with yarn D. (36 sts)
Round 17. [2 sc in the FL of the next st, 1 sc in the FL of the next st] eighteen times. (54 sts)
Round 18. 1 sc in next 2 sts, [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts] eight times, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. (63 sts)
Round 19. 1 sc in next 5 sts, [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 sts] six times, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. (70 sts)
Round 20. [1 sc in next st, 2 ch, miss 1 st] thirty-five times, ss into first sc to close. (35 lots of edging)
Slip stitch in next two stitches to smooth the edge, then fasten off and weave in ends.
Flower Decoration
Make two in yarn E.
Work 6 dc into a magic adjustable ring (How to Create a Magic Adjustable Ring Tutorial). Pull tail to close. (6 sts)
Round 1. [1 dc in the next st, 3 ch] six times, ss into first dc to close. (24 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end to attach the flower decoration to the witch.
Broomstick
Make one.
Using yarn F, work 6 dc into a magic adjustable ring (How to Create a Magic Adjustable Ring Tutorial). Pull tail to close. (6 sts)
Round 1. [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 sts] two times. (8 sts)
Round 2-23 (twenty-two rounds). 1 dc in each st to end. (8 sts)
Stuff lightly as you go.
Round 24. 1 dc in each st to end, finish last st with yarn G. (8 sts)
Round 25. 2 dc in the FL of each st to end. (16 sts)
Round 26-28 (three rounds). 1 dc in each st to end. (16 sts)
Round 29. [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 7 sts] two times. (18 sts)
Round 30. 1 dc in each st to end. (18 sts)
Round 31. [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 8 sts] two times. (20 sts)
Round 32. [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 9 sts] two times. (22 sts)
Round 33-35 (three rounds). 1 dc in each st to end. (22 sts)
Stuff the broomstick.
Round 36. Flatten the two sides together and close with 1 dc in each of next 10 sts going through both sides. (10 sts).
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Large Witch Assembly
The Premium Pattern contains a photo tutorial for this section.
1. Attach the safety eyes to HEAD – PART A, on the same side as the nose. Each eye is placed 5 rows up from the bottom edge and 5 stitches in from the side. There are 6 stitches between the eyes.
2. Sew the head cube together. Pin together both hair sections of HEAD – PART A and HEAD – PART B, and sew using yarn B. Pin together the face section and sew using yarn A. Stuff the cube, then pin and sew the back of neck section closed using yarn A.
3 . Lightly stuff the hair bun, and sew it to the back of the head.
4. Sew the two leg cubes together. Pin together both shoe sections of LEG – PART A and LEG – PART B, and sew using yarn D. Pin together one of the remaining leg sections and sew using yarn A. Stuff the cube, the sew the remaining leg section closed using yarn A.
5. Sew the two arm cubes together. Pin together both dress sections (including the yarn D row) of ARM – PART A and ARM – PART B, and sew using yarn C . Pin together one of the remaining arm sections and sew using yarn A. Stuff the cube, the sew the remaining arm section closed using yarn A.
6. Once all 6 cubes are complete, sew the amigurumi together.
7. Using yarn E, sew the flower decoration onto the hat, so that it covers where the yarn changes are visible, and the belt of the dress.
8. Lightly stuff the hat and sew into place.
9. Using yarn E, sew bristles onto the broomstick (optional), then sew the broomstick into place.
And there you go, I hope you enjoy making your Large Witch using this Large Witch Free Crochet Pattern. It would make a great gift or addition to your amigurumi collection. Looking for inspiration on what to make next? Check out these other patterns, to add to your collection. I’d love to see your finished project; you can link to me on Ravelry, tag me on Instagram or visit my Facebook page.
If you do wish to have your very own beautifully formatted copy of the pattern to keep, that is ad-free, printer-friendly, and packed with lots of useful photos and tutorials you can purchase the Premium Pattern through either my Etsy or Ravelry store.
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