The Sally Cow crochet pattern is my latest free pattern just for you.
Sally always wanted to be a comedian. She went to a local ‘open mic’ night and opened with her best joke.
“Why did the cow cross the road? To go to the MOOvies!”.
The audience found it udderly hilarious.
Cows are one of my favourite animals. They are so much larger in real life than they look in photos or on tv. They look so calm and patient, with such an air of serenity around them. I’m sure those who work with these majestic creatures would tell me otherwise, but they just looked so relaxed as I drive past and see them in their fields.
I would love to have the patience of a cow. My life is pretty hectic, as I am sure you can relate. With two young kids, a husband, a pet, a house and a part-time job, and multiple hobbies, it seems that there is always something wanting my attention. Even as I type, my youngest is struggling to sleep and keeps finding a reason to call me back to her side, “I’m thirsty”, “I’m cold”, “my eye hurts”, “I need the toilet”, “I want a cuddle”. That is why I love to crochet.
Crochet is my calm; my quiet time. There is nothing as soothing, after a full day of being all the things to all the people, as sitting down with a hot drink and entering the sacred space of crafting. Me, my hook, my yarn and my imagination. It’s an active meditation that helps me unwind. Stitch, after stitch, after stitch, after stitch. Concentrating on what is in front of me and letting go of the noise and worry. So my gift to you today is this adorable little cow, with a reminder to keep calm. You’ve got this.
Below is my free Cow amigurumi crochet pattern just for you. Or you can purchase your very own ad-free, printer-friendly version of the pattern through my Etsy or Ravelry store. The purchased pattern also includes the instructions for Florence the Highland Cow. The purchased pattern comes with US and UK instructions as well as clear photos.
This is an easy pattern suitable for those that have practised the basics of crochet and are ready for their next project. There is no set gauge for this pattern, however the finished size should be approximately 12-15 cm standing. Here is what you will need:
Materials
- You can use any DK or light weight yarn (other yarn thickness can be used – this will result in a larger size). I used the following acrylic yarn. You don’t need much, I needed less than 50g of each colour.
- Stylecraft Special Double Knit in Cream (yarn A)
- Stylecraft Special Double Knit in Black (yarn B)
- Stylecraft Special Double Knit in Stone (use where stated for yarn C & D)
- Patons Smoothie DK in black (approx 100 cm)
- Polyester stuffing
- 2.5mm crochet hook
- Yarn needle and long sewing needle
- Stitch marker or scrap piece of yarn
- Sewing pins to position the limbs before attaching (optional)
- Four 6mm buttons (optional)
- Upholstery thread (optional)
- Two washers approx. 2cm in diameter (optional – you can also use two one-cent coins or pennies)
Special Techniques
This pattern uses a magic adjustable ring to start. It also uses invisible decreases.
Invisible decrease: insert hook into the front loops of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through the first 2 loops of the hook, yarn over, pull through the final 2 loops on the hook. This counts as 1 sc.
Ear stitch: 2 ch, yarn over twice, insert hook into FL of next stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, yarn over, draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, yarn over twice, insert hook into FL of same stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through 2 loops on the hook, yarn over, draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, yarn over and draw the yarn through all 3 loops on the hook.
Notes
- I have used US crochet stitch terms for this post. Check out Tutorials & Resources in the main menu for a US to UK stitch conversion guide. The PDF version has both US and UK instructions.
- Unless the patterns specifies, work in continuous (spiral) rounds with the right side facing you at all times. Do not turn or join at end of each round unless the pattern says to do so. I find it handy to use a stitch marker or scrap piece of yarn to mark the beginning of each round and move marker up as each round is complete.
- Keep your stitches tight to produce a solid looking fabric. You don’t want gaps between your stitches.
- When you add the stuffing, you do not want to overstuff to the point that the stuffing is visible.
- To change colour, work the last stitch of old colour to the last yarn over. Yarn over with new colour and draw through all loops on hook to complete stitch. You can then continue with new colour. Knot and trim loose ends on the inside of the crochet fabric to hide the join.
Safety Caution
If you are making this as a gift for younger children DO NOT weight the feet or use buttons to joint the limbs. Please instead securely sew the arms and legs to the body.
Head
Make one.
With yarn C, work 4 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close. (4)
Round 1. 2 sc in each sc to end. (8 sts)
Round 2. 2 sc in each sc to end. (16 sts)
Round 3. Inc in BL of next sc, 1 sc in BL of each sc to end. (17)
Round 4. 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A. (17 sts)
Round 5. With yarn A, *2 sc in FL of next sc, 1 sc in FL of next sc; rep from * 7 times, 1 sc in FL of next sc (25)
Round 6-7. 1 sc in each sc to end. (25 sts)
Round 8. 1 ear st in the next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sc, 1 ear st in next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in each of next 14 sc. (25 sts – count the ear st as 1 st and do not include the 3 ch in the st count).
Round 9. 1 sc in the BL behind the ear st, 1 sc in each of next 9 sc, 1 sc in the BL behind the ear st, 1 sc in each of next 14 sc (25 sts).
Round 10. 1 sc in each next 23 sc, inv dec. (24 sts)
Round 11. *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, inv dec; rep from * to end. (18 sts)
Round 12. *1 sc in next sc, inv dec; rep from * to end. (12 sts)
Stuff firmly.
Round 13. inv dec 5 times. (5 sts, leave the last 2sts unworked)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use tail to close hole, weave in ends.
Body
Make one.
With yarn A, work 7 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close.
Round 1. *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from *2 times, 2 sc in next sc. (11 sts)
Round 2. *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from *4 times, 1 sc in next sc. (16 sts)
Round 3-4. 1 sc in each sc to end. (16 sts)
Round 5. *1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * to end. (20 sts)
Round 6. 1 sc in each sc to end. (20 sts)
Round 7. *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * to end. (30 sts)
Round 8. 1 sc in each sc to end. (30 sts)
Round 9. 1 sc in each of next 18 sc, *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * to end. (36 sts)
Round 10. *1 sc in next sc, inv dec; rep from * to end. (24 sts)
Round 11. *1 sc in next sc, inv dec; rep from * to end. (16 sts)
Stuff firmly.
Round 12. inv dec to end. (8 sts)
Round 13. inv dec once. (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use tail to close hole, weave in ends.
Leg
Make two.
With yarn B, work 6 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close.
Round 1. 2 sc in each sc to end. (12 sts)
Round 2. *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to end. (18 sts)
Round 3. 1 sc in BL of each sc to end. (18 sts)
Round 4. 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A. (18 sts)
If weighting the feet, insert the coin or washer into the base of the foot (DO NOT weight the feet if making for younger children).
Round 5. With yarn A, work 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, then inv dec to end. (12 sts)
Round 6. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, then inv dec to end. (9 sts)
Round 7-8. 1 sc in each sc to end. (9 sts)
Stuff firmly. Do not continue to stuff the leg.
Round 9-10. 1 sc in each sc to end. (9 sts)
Round 11. Flatten the leg together and close with 1 sc in each of next 3 sc going through both sides. (3 sts).
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Arm
Make two.
With yarn B, work 6 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close.
Round 1. 2 sc in each sc to end. (12 sts)
Round 2. 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A. (12 sts)
Round 3. With yarn A, *1 sc in next sc, inv dec; rep from * to end. (8 sts)
Round 4-9. 1 sc in each sc to end. (8 sts)
Stuff lightly.
Round 10. Flatten the arm together and close with 1 sc in each of next 3 sc going through both sides. (3 sts). See photo above.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Horn
Make two.
With yarn D, work 4 sc into a magic adjustable ring. Pull tail to close.
Round 1-2. 1 sc in each sc to end. (4 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using the handle of your crochet hook, or other blunt tool, to shape the horn. Do not stuff.
Assembly
1. Attach head to body using matching yarn. The front of the body is identifiable by the little tubby belly.
2. Attach arms and legs using matching yarn. For movable limbs attach by button jointing.
SAFETY CAUTION. If making for younger children DO NOT make with buttons, instead securely sew the arms and legs to the body.
3. Attach the horns to the head just above the ears.
4. Embroider on the face (following the tutorial below).
5. Attach the hair. Cut 24 strands of yarn B (for the cow) or yarn A (for the highland cow) twice the length of the desired size (around 6 cm). Using 2 strands of yarn at a time, insert hook behind st where hair will be, fold yarn over hook at centre of strands, pull loop through, fold all tails over hook and pull tails through. Trim hair to the style of your choice.
Face – Eyes, Eyebrows and Nostrils
Placement: The eyes are one stitch wide. There is a space of two stitches in between the eyes. The eyebrows are directly above the eyes and are two stitches wide. The nostrils are single stitches towards the top of the muzzle.
1. Thread the black yarn (approx. 100 cm) through yarn needle, line both ends of the thread up to sew using doubled thread.
2. Insert the needle into the bottom of the face. Bring the needle out to where the first eye will go.
3. Sew across the stitch four times to make the eye, then carry thread under face to the next eye.
4. Sew across the stitch four times to make the next eye, then carry thread under face to the start of the first eyebrow.
5. Sew the eyebrows on then carry thread under face to the start of the first nostril.
6. Sew the nostrils.
7. Thread the needle back through the face, bringing it out exactly in the same place where the needle was first inserted.
8. Knot both parts of the yarn securely. Fasten off and hide loose ends within the head.
And there you go, I hope you enjoy making your own Sally Cow using this free crochet amigurumi pattern. Why not make two? One for a loved one and one for your own miniature amigurumi collection. Looking for inspiration on what to make next? Check out these other patterns, to add to your collection. I’d love to see your finished project; you can link to me on Ravelry or visit my Facebook page.
If you do wish to have your very own low-cost copy of the pattern to keep, that is ad-free and printer-friendly you can either purchase it through my Etsy or Ravelry store. The purchased pattern also include the instructions for Florence the Highland Cow as well, so you’ll be able to complete the set. Both patterns have instructions using standard US crochet terms and instructions using standard UK crochet terms as well as clear photos.
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“Lovely easy to follow pattern.”
JP
“Everything was great and your pattern is very easy to read and follow.“
DCM
“Thanks for the lovely pattern!”
LL
