Put on your ballet shoes and join the dance recital with your very own ballerina doll. Your new best friend will be by your side showing you all her best moves. The small ballerina amigurumi crochet pattern is a quick and easy-to-make project and is ideal if you’re looking to bring a smile to yourself or a gift for a loved one.
The past few weeks I’ve been delighted to take in all the small delicate signs that spring is finally here. Showing my girls all the beautiful spring flowers that have been brave enough to bloom, even though we are still having regular frosts mixed with occasional sprinkles of snow. Watching birds busily fly around with twigs in their mouths on their way to their nests. Marvelling as the bare winter branches of the trees around our neighbourhood become covered with little confetti-like blossom and growing leaf buds.
It has all been very inspiring to see and so I shook off all the winter gloom that had gently snuck into my life and settled on my shoulders and became all enthused about the new year and, of course, the new possibilities for my crochet. This, I said to myself, is to be a glorious year for crochet. I have so many ideas that I want to make for my girls. It’s going to be fantastic; I will shower my girls with love and beautiful crochet gifts, which I will turn into patterns so other people can shower the special child in their life with love and beautiful crochet gifts. My head was full of ideas and colours and stitches, and so I did what I usually do when I am excited. I started three different projects at once.
Naturally, a few weeks in I was getting frustrated at the lack of my progress. So I followed the sensible words of my ever-patient husband, “just concentrate on one thing at a time love”. Which came to the tricky next step of deciding what to make first. Well, it wasn’t that much of a tricky decision. I had been growing braver with my Cubigurumi (cube + amigurumi) pattern designing and there was one question that had been floating around in my head for a long time, “can I turn it into a doll?”. Coincidentally, my youngest asked for a ballerina doll, and the decision was made.
A few tweaks, here and there, thrown in with a whole load of love and quite a few re-takes on the tutu (I didn’t realise just how difficult working out the magic combination of stitches to get a frilly tutu would be) and voila! I’d like to introduce you to the latest Cubigurumi to join the My Crochet Wish family. I hope the special child in your life will enjoy it as much as my girls do. And it’s ok if you want one just for yourself, my little ballerina is keeping me company on the shelf next to where I work.
No rest for the busy, I now working on a different kind of pattern for my girls’ bedrooms, that I hope will complement the ballerina, however in the meantime I’ll leave you with the small ballerina amigurumi crochet pattern to keep you busy until my next pattern is ready.
Small ballerina is part of my new Cubigurumi range that you can find on the My Crochet Wish website, alongside my other Cubigurumi like this Cuddle Robot. Yes, I still have an obsession with cubes and yes, there will be more coming this way over the next few months. They are just so quick and easy-to-make and my girls love how cute and different they look compared to their other toys.
Below is my free Small Ballerina amigurumi crochet pattern just for you. Or you can purchase your very own ad-free, printer-friendly version of the pattern through my Etsy or Ravelry store. The purchased pattern comes with US and UK instructions as well as clear photos, and step-by-step tutorials for any new skills that you might need, like starting with a magic circle or sewing together a My Crochet Wish cube.
Small Ballerina Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
This is an easy pattern suitable for those that have practised the basics of crochet and are ready for their next project. There is no set gauge for this pattern, however the finished size should be approximately 6.5 inches high (16.5 cm). Here is what you will need:
Disclaimer: there is sewing involved in this project. In my experience, there are three types of people in the crochet community; those that hate sewing and actively avoid it, those that are indifferent and will sew if necessary, and those that love sewing and do it as separate craft. If you are in the first group and hate sewing with a passion, then my Cubigurumi patterns probably aren’t for you.
Materials
- You can use any DK or light weight yarn (other yarn thickness can be used – this will result in a different size). I used the following acrylic yarn. You don’t need much.
- Stylecraft Special DK in Soft Peach 20g (64.5 yards / 59 metres) – yarn A
- Stylecraft Special DK in Walnut 10g (32.5 yards / 30 metres) – yarn B
- Stylecraft Special DK in Fondant 30g (97 yards / 88.5 metres) – yarn C
- Polyester stuffing
- 2.5mm crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- Two safety eyes 9mm in diameter
Notes
- Are you new to crochet? Here is a handy post explaining all the abbreviations.
- I have used US crochet stitch terms for this post. Check out this US to UK stitch conversion guide if you prefer to work in UK stitches.
- All pieces, apart from the hair bun and tutu, are worked in rows, turning after each row.
- The hair bun and tutu are worked in a continuous (spiral) round with right side facing at all times.
- Unless specified, all stitches should be worked through both loops on the top of the stitch.
- Keep your stitches tight to produce a solid looking fabric. You don’t want gaps between your stitches.
- To change colour, work last stitch of old colour to last yarn over. Yarn over with new colour and draw through all loops on hook to complete stitch. Continue with new colour. Fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
- Stuff carefully to maintain the square shape of the amigurumi toy. You can stuff for a more firmer cuddle, however the cubes will start to take a more rounded shape.
- When you add the stuffing, you do not want to overstuff to the point that the stuffing is visible.
Head – Part A
Make one.
Using yarn A, 11 ch. (11 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 2. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, bo in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 1ch, turn. (10 sts and 1 ch)
Row 3-6 (four rows). 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 7. Using yarn A, 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 8-10 (three rows). Using yarn B, 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 11. 1 sc in the BL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 12-20 (nine rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 21. 1 sc in the BL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 22-27 (six rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 28. Using yarn B, 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 29. Using yarn A, 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 30. 1 sc in each sc to end. (10 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn A and B to sew the cube together later on. Weave in the other ends.
Head – Part B
Make one.
When changing between yarns, follow the instructions for the row you are on.
Using yarn B, 11 ch. (11 sts)
Row 1. Using yarn B, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each st to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 2-3 (two rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 4. Using yarn B,1 sc in each of next 8 sc, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 5. Using yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 sc in each of next 8 sc, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 6. Using yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 7. Using yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 bo in the next sc, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 1 ch, turn. (10 sts and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and fasten off non-working yarn.
Row 8. Using yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 9-10 (two rows). Using yarn A, 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 11. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 12-20 (nine rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 21. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 22. 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 23. Using yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 24. Using yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 bo in the next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 ch, turn. (10 sts and 1 ch)
Once row 24 is complete, push the bobble stitch through to the other side of the crochet work. Now both ears are on the same side.
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and carry non-working yarn in front of crochet work.
Row 25. Using yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn behind crochet work and carry non-working yarn behind crochet work.
Row 26. Using yarn B, 1 sc in each of next 8 sc, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
For the next row, change yarn in front of crochet work and fasten off yarn A.
Row 27. Using yarn A, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, finish last st with yarn B, using yarn B 1 sc in each of next 8 sc, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 28-29 (two rows). Using yarn B, 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (10 sc and 1 ch)
Row 30. 1 sc in each sc to end. (10 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Body
Make two in yarn C.
13 ch. (13 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 2-6 (five rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 7. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 8-12 (five rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 13. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 14-24 (eleven rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 25. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 26-30 (five rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 31. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 32-35 (four rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (12 sc and 1 ch)
Row 36. 1 sc in each sc to end. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn on one of the pieces to sew the cube together later on. Weave in the other ends.
Arms
Make four in yarn A.
6 ch. (6 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 2-5 (four rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 6. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 7-10 (four rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 11. 1 sc in the BL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 12-14 (three rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 15. 1 sc in each sc to end. (5 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn on two of the pieces to sew the cubes together later on. Weave in the other ends.
Legs – Part A
Make two.
When changing between yarns, fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
Using yarn A, 6 ch. (6 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 2. 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 3. Using yarn A, 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn C, using yarn C 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 4-5 (two rows). Using yarn C, 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 6. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 7-10 (four rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 11. 1 sc in the BL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 12. Using yarn C, 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 13-14 (two rows). Using yarn A, 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 15. 1 sc in each sc to end. (5 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Legs – Part B
Make two.
When changing between yarns, fasten off the non-working yarn and weave the end in. Do not carry the non-working yarn.
Using yarn C, 6 ch. (6 sts)
Row 1. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 2. Using yarn C, 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn A, using yarn A 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 3-5 (three rows). Using yarn A, 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 6. 1 sc in the FL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 7-10 (four rows). 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 11. 1 sc in the BL of each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 12. 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 13. Using yarn A, 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn C, using yarn C 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 14 . Using yarn C, 1 sc in each sc to end, 1 ch, turn. (5 sc and 1 ch)
Row 15. 1 sc in each sc to end. (5 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn A and B on both pieces to sew the cubes together later on. Weave in the other ends.
Hair Bun
Make one.
Work in a continuous (spiral) round with right side facing at all times.
Using yarn B, work 8 sc into a magic adjustable ring (How to Create a Magic Adjustable Ring tutorial). Pull tail to close. (8 sts)
Round 1. Using yarn B, [1 sc in the next sc, 3 sc in the next sc] four times. (16 sts)
Round 2. 1 sc in the BL of each sc to end. (16 sts)
Round 3. Using yarn B, 1 sc in each sc to end, finish last st with yarn C. (16 sts)
Round 4. Using yarn C, 1 sc in each sc to end. (16 sts)
Slip stitch in next two stitches to smooth the edge, then fasten off, leaving a long end to sew the hair bun to the head.
Tutu
Make one in yarn C.
Start by sewing together the body cube (How to Assemble a Crochet Amigurumi Cube tutorial).
On the body cube, a row of loops can be seen halfway up the side, that goes around the entire circumference of the body. The tutu is crocheted onto these loops.
Work in a continuous (spiral) round with right side facing at all times.
Attach your yarn (yarn C) to the beginning of any row of the loops with a single crochet (this counts as the first sc for round 1).
Round 1. 1 sc in each of the loops of the next 12 sc, 1 ch, [1 sc in the loop of the 1st sc on the next side of the cube, 1 sc in each of the loops of the next 11 sc, 1 ch] three times. (52 sts)
Round 2. [1 sc in each of the next 12 sc, 2 sc in the next ch space] four times. (56 sts)
Round 3. 2 ch, 2 dc in the next sc, 3 dc in each sc to end. (168 sts)
Round 4. 3 sc in the top of the first 2 ch of previous round, 3 sc in each st to end. (504 sts)
Slip stitch in next two stitches to smooth the edge, then fasten off and weave in ends.
Small Ballerina Assembly
1. Attach the safety eyes to the HEAD – PART A rectangle, on the same side as the nose. Each eye is placed 4 rows up from the bottom edge (2 rows above the nose) and 3 stitches in from the side. There are 4 stitches between the eyes.
2. Sew all the individual cubes together (if this is your first time assembling a cube from two rectangles then check out the How to Assemble a Crochet Amigurumi Cube tutorial). Where there is a part A and B for a body part, sew one part A and one part B together. Before you start sewing, make sure that the cube will assemble the correct way (the end result should resemble the final photos), especially on the head. The fold lines (the unworked lines of loops on the rectangles) should stay on the outside of the cube. If you want a neater look, use the same colour thread as the part you are sewing together, e.g. hair colour for hair, skin colour for skin.
3. Lightly stuff the hair bun, and sew it to the top of the head.
4. Once all 6 cubes are complete, sew the amigurumi together.
And there you go, I hope you enjoy making your Small Ballerina using this free small ballerina amigurumi crochet pattern. She would make a great gift or addition to your amigurumi collection. Looking for inspiration on what to make next? Check out these other patterns, to add to your collection. I’d love to see your finished project; you can link to me on Ravelry or visit my Facebook page.
If you do wish to have your very own low-cost copy of the pattern to keep, that is ad-free and printer-friendly you can either purchase it through my Etsy or Ravelry store. All My Crochet Wish patterns are written in English and have instructions using standard US crochet terms and instructions using UK crochet terms. Each pattern has clear photos and extra guidance where needed (for the little details), and also specific direction for left-handed and right-handed crocheters, where needed. Each pattern also includes the relevant step-by-step photo tutorials for the skills you need to complete the project.
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See what other people are saying
“The pattern is great.”
RG
“My goodness they are so cute!”
JB
“It is so well written. It a really lovely little thing. I can see it making a super awesome pillow if made from blanket yarn with a 9mm hook.”
JM
